Oaxaca · Food

Oaxaca is Mexico's food capital — mole negro at a comedor is the pilgrimage plate.

The giant crisped tortilla with asiento and quesillo — street griddles do it best.

The smoke hall: pick your meat, they grill it, tortillas appear.

Palenques in Santiago Matatlán pour espadín and wild tobalá where it's made.

Toasted grasshoppers and the ancient cacao-corn drink — market-counter courage.