Mexico's food-and-craft capital: seven moles, smoky mezcal, and streets built of green stone.
Mercado 20 de Noviembre
Follow the smoke to the grilled-meat hall — point, pay, eat at the communal tables.
Mezcal palenques
Ride into the valley to taste where it's made — espadín, tobalá, and the slow ritual.
Monte Albán
The Zapotec capital on a flattened mountaintop. Morning light, few people.
Hierve el Agua
Petrified waterfalls and cliff-edge mineral pools facing the mountains.
Barrio de Jalatlaco
The mural-painted quarter for golden-hour walks and café patios.