The world's most laid-back capital: French bakeries, a golden stupa, wide boulevards and a Mekong promenade that becomes a night market.
Pha That Luang
The gilded national stupa and the country's most important monument, 4km north-east of the centre. Best in late afternoon light.
COPE Visitor Centre
Free, superb and sobering museum on unexploded ordnance and prosthetics, open daily 8.30am to 4pm on Khouvieng Road.
Patuxai Victory Gate
Concrete arch reputedly built with cement donated for an airport runway. Climb it for 3,000 kip and a view down Lane Xang Avenue.
Wat Si Saket
The oldest surviving temple in Vientiane, its cloister walls lined with thousands of small Buddha images. Ho Phra Keo sits opposite.
Buddha Park (Xieng Khuan)
Surreal concrete sculpture garden 25km downriver near the Friendship Bridge. Bus 14 from the central station, or a taxi.
Fly Wattay International (VTE)
Regional flights from Bangkok, Hanoi, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and Seoul. The airport is 4km from the centre, about 15 minutes by taxi.
China-Laos Railway
Fast trains to Vang Vieng in an hour and Luang Prabang in two, from Vientiane Khamsavath 14km out. Bus 28 runs from the city bus station.
Friendship Bridge from Thailand
From Nong Khai by shuttle bus, or the Thai through-train to Khamsavath. Visas are issued at the border; carry US dollars and a photo.
Best time to go
November to February: dry, warm days, cool evenings. That Luang festival is in November.
Cheapest months
May to September. Wet-season rates, a swollen Mekong, and no tour groups anywhere.
Priciest & busiest
Lao New Year in mid-April and the December holidays. Hotels fill and transport books out.
Morning
Start at COPE on Khouvieng Road when it opens at 8.30am, while the galleries are quiet and the day is still cool.
Late morning
Wat Si Saket and Ho Phra Keo, then walk up Lane Xang Avenue to Patuxai and climb it for the view.
Lunch
Coffee and a proper baguette at one of the French bakeries, or noodle soup inside Talat Sao morning market.
Afternoon
Tuk-tuk or bus out to Pha That Luang, then on to Buddha Park if you have the whole afternoon.
Evening
Sunset on the Mekong promenade, the riverside night market from about 5pm, then dinner and a Beerlao nearby.