Nong Khiaw

Roughly 1.5 hours of steep steps and ladders, 50,000 kip, to a 360-degree view over the Nam Ou. Go at dawn and stay on the path.

Caves that sheltered villagers and officials through the war, 50,000 kip, about 2km east of the bridge. Bring a torch; lighting is poor.

An hour up the Nam Ou to a village with no through road. Go for the day or stay a night. Boats leave mid-morning.

A full-day boat-and-trek combo climbing a staircase of cascades. Wet, hard and superb. Use a licensed local guide, not a freelancer.

The road bridge is the town's free viewpoint, karsts rising on both banks. Five minutes from any guesthouse.

About four hours north on a winding sealed road, several departures daily. Book through a guesthouse to get hotel pick-up.

Down the Nam Ou from the far north, often broken with a night in Muang Ngoi. Departures depend on water levels and numbers.

The China-Laos Railway does not serve Nong Khiaw. Take the train to Luang Prabang, then continue by road or river.

November to March: warm days, cool nights, dry trails and clear light on the karsts.

May to September. Cheapest rooms, but leeches, mud and cloud that hides the viewpoints.

December to February peak and Lao New Year in April. Rooms are few here, so book ahead.

Leave by 5am for Pha Daeng Peak and watch mist fill the Nam Ou valley from the top. Head torch and water essential.

Back down for a late breakfast, then the morning market and a wander through the village on the east bank.

Lao food at a family-run riverside place: laap, sticky rice, river fish and a cold Beerlao.

Kayak a stretch of the Nam Ou, or take the boat up to Muang Ngoi and back before the light goes.

A herbal steam bath around 6pm, dinner on a river terrace, then bed. The town is asleep by ten.

An hour upstream: a roadless riverside village of hammocks, caves and rice-field walks. The stronger reason to come this far north.

20,000 kip, around 15km away at Sop Kong village. Best after rain. Go by scooter or arranged tuk-tuk.