The most French-influenced kitchen town in Laos: Arabica and baguettes in the morning, jeow and or lam at night, and a working market that has nothing to do with the tourist one.
Phosi Market — the market locals actually use
The town's main produce market, out on the Phou Vao side about 2km from the peninsula and busiest before 9am: river fish, herbs, buffalo, foraged greens and noodle-soup stalls. Nothing here is aimed at visitors, which is the point.
Saffron Coffee on the Mekong road
Espresso bar, brew bar and roastery on the river, run since 2006 as a social enterprise buying shade-grown Arabica from more than 800 hill-farming families across four northern provinces. Good place to buy beans rather than pay airport prices.
Manda de Laos
Lao family cooking — charcoal-grilled laap, banana-leaf steamed fish, honey-glazed ribs, buffalo — served beside UNESCO-listed lily ponds on Norrassan Road. Open daily 7am to 10.30pm, but tasting menus run from about US$42 to US$108 a head, so treat it as the splash-out.
Order khao soi and or lam, not the Thai versions
Luang Prabang khao soi is flat rice noodles under a tomato-and-pork sauce, nothing like Chiang Mai's coconut curry; or lam is a peppery stew stiffened with sakhaan wood that gently numbs the tongue. Both turn up in market alleys and small Lao kitchens off the main street.