Nairobi

Orphaned elephants at the 11am-noon public hour. Book by email at least two working days ahead; no same-day entry.

Hand-feed endangered Rothschild's giraffes from a raised platform. Open daily 9am-5pm, around KSh1,500 for non-residents.

Rhino, lion and giraffe against a skyline of tower blocks. Go at dawn. There are no elephants, but the backdrop is unmatched.

The farmhouse from Out of Africa, below the Ngong Hills. Pay by eCitizen: National Museums sites no longer take cash.

Charcoal-roasted meat carved off Maasai swords until you lower the flag. Lunch 12-3pm, dinner 6-9pm; book at weekends.

Jomo Kenyatta International is East Africa's biggest hub, with direct flights from Europe, the Gulf and across Africa.

Light aircraft to the Mara, Amboseli and the coast leave from Wilson, a separate airport south of town. Allow time to transfer.

The Madaraka Express links Mombasa and Nairobi in about six hours through Tsavo. Book ahead; safer than the highway.

January-March and July-October: dry, sunny and aligned with peak safari season.

April-May long rains. Green, quiet and discounted, with afternoon downpours.

July-September and Christmas, when migration season fills every connection.

Dawn game drive in Nairobi National Park for lion, rhino and giraffe with the city skyline behind them.

Cross to the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust for the 11am-noon orphaned elephant hour. Pre-booked visitors only.

Eat in Karen. The leafy suburb has garden restaurants and good coffee minutes from both sanctuaries.

Feed Rothschild's giraffes at the Giraffe Centre, then walk through the Karen Blixen farmhouse nearby.

Nyama choma at Carnivore, then a DJ set or live band at The Alchemist in Westlands.

A breezy ridge walk along the wind farm an hour from the centre, with the Rift Valley dropping away west. Go with a guide.

Under two hours out: hippos, a boat trip to Crescent Island and walking safaris among zebra and giraffe.