Mombasa

The 16th-century Portuguese fort above the old harbour, UNESCO-listed and now holding the city museum.

Coral-rag houses with carved doors and Zanzibari balconies behind the fort. Small, walkable, best early in the day.

Mackinnon Market and the Old Town stalls sell tamarind, cardamom and dried fish. Bargain, and watch your bag.

Biryani, mishkaki, viazi karai and fresh tamarind juice. Coastal food is the strongest reason to stop in the city.

Seafood restaurant above Tudor Creek, open noon to 10pm daily. The Tamarind Dhow sails from the same site; confirm current cruises.

Moi International takes hourly flights from Nairobi in about an hour, plus seasonal charters from Europe and Gulf links.

The Madaraka Express runs Nairobi to Mombasa in about six hours through Tsavo. Book ahead; far safer than the highway.

Mombasa is an island linked by causeway, bridge and the Likoni ferry. Tuk-tuks are the standard short hop.

December-March for hot, dry, calm weather and clear water over the reef.

May-June, straight after the long rains, when coastal hotels are near empty.

Christmas and August, when Nairobi and Europe arrive at the same time.

Start at Fort Jesus before the heat, taking in the museum and the ramparts above the old harbour.

Walk the Old Town alleys for carved doors, balconies and the Mandhry mosque, among the coast's oldest.

Swahili biryani or mishkaki in Old Town, washed down with fresh tamarind juice.

Cross to Nyali for Haller Park, or take a tuk-tuk up to the beaches north of the causeway.

Sunset dinner cruise on the Tamarind Dhow, or seafood at the restaurant on the creek.

Two hours north for a marine national park and the Gede ruins. Stop here; the advisory zone begins north of Malindi.

Three hours inland for red-dusted elephants and the Yatta Plateau. An easy overnight trip from the coast.