Amboseli

The mountain is usually only clear at sunrise and sunset. Be up early; by 9am the cloud has normally closed in.

The one place you may leave the vehicle. A short climb gives a 360-degree view over the swamps and elephant herds.

Fed by Kilimanjaro's meltwater, the marshes draw hundreds of elephants daily, including some of Africa's last big tuskers.

A community conservancy on the elephant corridor east of the park, quieter than Amboseli and open to walking and night drives.

Amboseli sits in Maasai land. Book a village visit through your lodge so the fee actually reaches the community.

About 45 minutes by light aircraft from Nairobi Wilson to the park airstrip. Soft bags only on these planes.

Four to five hours via Emali on the Mombasa road. The final stretch to the gate is corrugated but manageable.

Amboseli sits between Nairobi and Tsavo West, so it slots into an overland loop rather than a there-and-back trip.

June-October and January-February: dry, dusty and the clearest Kilimanjaro views.

April-May long rains, when the swamps fill and both crowds and prices drop.

Christmas and New Year, plus the July-September safari peak.

Out at first light for Kilimanjaro before the cloud builds, and elephants walking down to the swamps.

Climb Observation Hill for the overview, then work the marsh edges for hippo, buffalo and pelicans.

Back to the lodge for lunch and a siesta through the hottest, flattest light of the day.

Out again at 4pm as the herds move and the dust turns gold. Watch for a second clearing of the mountain.

Sundowners facing Kilimanjaro, then dinner and an early night before another dawn start.

Two hours east: Mzima Springs, black lava flows and red-dusted elephants in a far bigger, wilder and emptier park.

Green volcanic hills between Amboseli and Tsavo, good for riding, walking and long views back to Kilimanjaro.