Wadi Rum · Food

Dinner and breakfast are inside nearly every camp rate and lunch on a jeep day is cooked out in the shade of a rock. There is nowhere to eat between camps, so the quoted rate is the food budget.

The only independent food in the reserve: a couple of simple restaurants and shops selling water, bread, tinned things and snacks. Stock up here — everything costs more once you are out on the sand.

Lamb cooked in jameed, a dried fermented yoghurt, over rice and eaten communally by hand. It is not on any menu here, but camps will cook it for a group given a day's notice, and it is worth the asking.

Bottled water costs a fraction in the village of what it costs out at a camp, and this is the driest stretch of southern Jordan — the Jordan Trail's own notes flag the desert either side of Rum for its lack of water.