Aqaba · Where to stay

The town itself: budget and mid-range hotels within walking distance of the fish restaurants, the souk, the castle and the public beach. It is the only base where you can do without a taxi, and the cheapest by a wide margin — but the town beach is a town beach, not a reef.

The line of international hotels along the north shore, plus the Ayla development with its marina, lagoons and golf course. Comfortable, self-contained and expensive, a short taxi from town, and the closest thing Aqaba has to a resort experience — but a long way from the good snorkelling in the south.

Fifteen to twenty minutes down the south coast road, where the reef is. Dive centres, the marine park beaches and the kitesurfing are all here, and so are the resorts that suit people who want to be in the water twice a day. You will need taxis or a hire car for anything in town.

Aqaba's high season is the opposite of Europe's: December to February brings Jordanian and Gulf families south for 23-degree days, and Eid holidays fill everything. Midsummer is very hot and also busy. October–November and March–May are the compromise, with sea temperatures around 26 degrees in October.