Amman

Temple of Hercules columns, an Umayyad palace and the Jordan Archaeological Museum on the hill above downtown. Open 8am to 4pm in winter and to 7pm in summer; 3 JD, free on a Jordan Pass.

A second-century theatre for 6,000 cut into the hillside downtown, still used for performances. Open roughly 9am to 8pm depending on season, from 2 JD.

The 'Ain Ghazal statues, about 9,000 years old, and the Copper Scroll from the Dead Sea caves. Open 9am-5pm, Fridays 3-6pm only, closed Tuesdays.

Downtown falafel, hummus and fuul in an alley off King Faisal Street, open around the clock. No menus and no price list; the staff judge your appetite for you.

The stand off King Faisal Square has sold Nabulsi kunafa since 1951. Join the queue, eat it standing up on a paper plate, and expect to go back.

Jordan's main airport, about 35km south of the city and Royal Jordanian's hub. A Jordan Pass bought before you land waives the visa fee if you stay at least two nights.

Sariyah's coach runs between the airport and Tabarbour North Station via the Seventh Circle for 3.40 JD, roughly every 30 minutes and hourly on Fridays.

JETT leaves the Seventh Circle terminal for Petra and Aqaba at around 11 JD one way. Book at jett.com.jo. There is no JETT service to the Dead Sea or Wadi Rum.

March-May and September-November: warm days, cool evenings and the best walking weather in the country.

December-February. Cold, occasionally snowy and the cheapest months, with sites closing by 4pm.

Late July into early August, when the Jerash and Amman film festivals overlap and hotels fill.

Start at the Citadel for the Temple of Hercules and the view down over the theatre, before the heat and the first coaches.

Walk down to the Roman Theatre and the Odeon, then into the downtown souks around King Faisal Street.

Hummus and falafel at Hashem, then kunafa at Habibah a few doors along.

The Jordan Museum in Ras al-Ayn for the 'Ain Ghazal statues and the Copper Scroll, then the galleries up in Jabal Al Weibdeh.

Dinner on Rainbow Street, where Sufra serves until 11pm in a converted villa, then drinks along the same strip.

Two of the best Roman ruins in the region and a hilltop Ayyubid castle, both under 90 minutes north and easily combined in one day.

About 55km and an hour down from the Seventh Circle to Sweimeh, low enough to float for an afternoon and be back for dinner.