Tokyo · With kids

Two parks at Maihama in Chiba, twenty minutes out on the Keiyo line — the classic Disneyland and the harbour-themed DisneySea. Works from about age three.

Small, deliberately unhurried and reached through Inokashira Park. Tickets go on sale by monthly lottery and sell out; the larger Ghibli Park sits near Nagoya.

Giant pandas, a monorail-free walk between two halves, and a park full of museums outside the gate. Suits ages two and up.

The national science museum, with the Asimo demonstration and a hands-on internet exhibit. Pitched at about ages six to fourteen.

Under-sixes travel free, and most stations have lifts — but avoid the 8am and 6pm crush entirely. Department store floors hide nappy rooms and early kids' menus.