Thirty-seven million people, and somehow the quietest big city on earth — until you find the noise.
Shibuya scramble at night
Cross it, then watch it from above — the world's busiest intersection is a ballet.
Tsukiji outer market breakfast
Tamago on a stick and the best tuna of your life before 9am.
Golden Gai
Two hundred bars the size of closets — pick the one with a free seat.
Senso-ji before the shutters
Asakusa's great temple at 7am, incense and empty lantern gates.
TeamLab + Odaiba night
Digital art you wade through, then the rainbow bridge glittering home.