Where to sleep in Osaka — the neighborhoods and the picks, siesta side to fiesta side.
Namba & Dotonbori — the neon river
The Glico sign, crab billboards and food alleys — Osaka at full wattage.
Umeda (Kita) — the polished north
Department-store dining floors and skyline bars over the station city.
Shinsekai — retro grit
Tsutenkaku tower's old-school kushikatsu quarter — cheap and characterful.
Tennoji — park-and-temple south
Harukas views, the zoo and everyday Osaka prices.