Ten thousand gates — and the trick is simply the hour you arrive.
Fushimi Inari is open 24 hours
Almost nobody knows this.
Go at 6am
The gates to yourself, the sound of your own steps. By 10am it’s a queue.
Pontocho at dusk
Lanterns, yakitori, riverside seats — the golden-hour dinner alley.
Neon till late
Kyoto sleeps early; Dotonbori in Osaka is 30 minutes away.