Venice · Food

Venice's tapas: crostini and small plates in bacari, washed down with an ombra of wine.

The spritz was born Venetian — take it standing by a canal, Select or Aperol, olive in.

Sweet-sour sardines with onions and raisins — the lagoon's oldest recipe.

Lagoon crabs and seasonal everything — the market that fed a republic for 1,000 years.

Risotto al nero di seppia — black as the lagoon at night, better than it photographs.