The Rome table — what to order and where the locals point.
The four pastas
Carbonara, cacio e pepe, amatriciana, gricia — Rome's canon. Order all four across a trip.
Roscioli
Deli, wine bar and pasta shrine in one — book the counter.
Pizza al taglio
By-the-slice, by weight — Bonci's Pizzarium near the Vatican made it world-famous.
Testaccio market lunch
Panini at the market boxes — the trapizzino was born in this neighborhood.
Carciofi season
February–April: artichokes alla romana and alla giudia in the old Jewish Ghetto.