Twenty-eight centuries deep and still eating dinner outside at midnight.
Colosseum at opening
First entry slot, then the Forum while tour groups are still at breakfast.
Trevi Fountain before 7am
The only hour it belongs to you. Coin over the left shoulder, obviously.
Trastevere after dark
Ivy-covered alleys, wine on church steps, carbonara where the waiter decides for you.
Aperitivo on a rooftop
Spritz above the domes at golden hour — half the price of dinner, all the view.
Gianicolo sunset
The hill above Trastevere: all of Rome's domes in one panorama, cannon fires at noon.