Milan · Nightlife

The canal district, and the home of Milanese aperitivo: buy a drink between six and nine and the buffet comes with it. Alzaia Naviglio Grande is packed every night in summer.

The Porta Venezia bar where the Negroni Sbagliato was invented, still serving it in an absurdly large glass. Older crowd early, design crowd during Salone week.

Cocktail bars and pavement tables in the old artists' quarter. Smarter and quieter than Navigli, and closer to everything else.

Under the skyscrapers and the Bosco Verticale: rooftop bars on one side of the railway, neighbourhood wine bars on the other.

A proper jazz club in Isola with two sets most nights and an international programme. Book a table rather than turning up.