Bologna · Food

On the city's own register of typical Bolognese taverns, in the student streets east of Piazza Verdi. This quarter is where you eat Bolognese food at Bolognese prices rather than tourist ones — and where everything closes when term ends.

Also on the city's list of traditional taverns, at the quieter end of a street far better known for what it does after dinner. A sit-down trattoria rather than a bar, which on Via del Pratello makes it the exception.

Bologna still has working sfogline — women who roll egg pasta by hand — and the tourist board keeps a register of the ones running open workshops and classes, including Lucia Antonelli's tortellini sessions. Cheapest way to understand why the tagliatelle here is not the same object.

Past the pasta there is a whole second register: pane di San Petronio, sfrappole at carnival, torta di riso, panone at Christmas, pinza montanara from the hills above the city. The tourist board keeps the list of typical products; the bakeries in the centre keep the goods.