Amalfi Coast · Food

On Piazza Duomo since 1830, and registered as a historic premises. Almond pastry, pastiera and the lemon sweets the coast runs on, taken standing at the counter with everyone else. Open through the day, and it is the one address in Amalfi that has not changed hands.

The pastry shop that made Minori a stop rather than a place you pass: delizia al limone, ricotta e pere, sfogliatella Santarosa, plus a full restaurant, pizzeria and bar alongside the counter. Ten minutes from Amalfi by boat for €5.

The short, thick egg-and-milk pasta that every restaurant here serves with seafood is not old: it was created in Amalfi by the chef Enrico Cosentino, whom the town still honours at its Byzantine New Year celebration. Order them instead of the spaghetti.

The terraces above the towns grow the sfusato amalfitano, a long thick-skinned lemon that ends up in limoncello, in the delizia, and on every souvenir stall between Vietri and Positano. Buy the liqueur from a producer rather than a gift shop — and remember the base of it is pure alcohol.