Ireland's proud second city — a covered market that's been feeding it since 1788, and a rebel streak about everything.
The English Market
1788, covered, glorious — buttered eggs, spiced beef and the Farmgate café upstairs.
Shandon Bells
Climb the tower and ring the bells yourself over the city.
Blarney Castle
Kiss the stone if you must; the gardens and poison garden are the better half.
Cobh
The Titanic's last port, a rainbow terrace of houses and an emigration museum, 25 minutes by train.
Kinsale
A gourmet harbour town 30 minutes south — Ireland's prettiest lunch.
Fly into
Cork (ORK), 20 minutes from the centre; or the 2.5-hour train from Dublin.
From the airport
Bus 226 runs to the city centre and the bus station.
Getting around
Walkable, hilly centre; trains to Cobh and Midleton, buses to Kinsale.