The Jaipur table — what to order and where the locals point.
Dal baati churma
Rajasthan's baked-wheat ritual drowned in ghee — the desert's feast.
Lassiwala mornings
Clay-cup lassi on MI Road since 1944 — go before noon, beware imitators.
Pyaaz kachori
The onion-stuffed fried breakfast — Rawat's is the pilgrimage.
Laal maas
The fiery red mutton of the Rajput hunt — order it at a haveli dinner.
Thali theater
The bottomless silver-tray experience — Chokhi Dhani village does dinner-as-festival.
