Jökulsárlón · Nightlife

Between Kirkjubæjarklaustur and Höfn there is roughly one hotel bar every fifty kilometres and nothing else at all. Buy wine at the state Vínbúðin in Klaustur or Höfn before it shuts, which is early.

September to April, with the aurora coming back off the water and the ice. Dress far more warmly than you think: standing still beside a glacier lagoon at midnight is colder than the thermometer says.

From late May to mid-July the light barely leaves. The lagoon at one in the morning in June is pink, silent and effectively yours.

Concrete tubs fed by a geothermal bore at the end of a gravel track inland from Höfn, looking at the glacier. Small charge, no staff in the evening, and nobody else there.

Two or three, all attached to somewhere that also serves dinner, all closing early. You came here to look at ice, and the town is honest about that.