Lake Balaton · Food

The town's covered market hall at Malom köz, a few streets back from the water, for fruit, cheese, vegetables and cold cuts. Hungarian markets are a morning business, so go early rather than after the beach.

The harbour square by the marina, where the terraces do halászlé and grilled fogas facing the yachts. It is the town's obvious lunch spot, which in July means queueing.

The beach habit worth knowing: deep-fried dough the size of a plate, ordered with sour cream and grated cheese from the snack bar inside the paid beaches. It is lunch, not a snack.

Keszthely and Hévíz keep kitchens open from October to April because of the spa trade, while much of the rest of the shoreline closes completely. Check that somewhere is cooking before you plan a winter evening.