SIESTA TO FIESTA

Eger

EUROPE ยท SIESTA SIDE
Baroque market town under a fortress that held off the Ottomans, ringed by hillside cellars pouring Egri Bikaver - Bull's Blood - for pocket change.
Aerial view of Eger with the twin towers of its basilica
Nightlife โ†’Things to do โ†’

The plan

Eger Castle
Var koz 1: ramparts, casemates and the Dobo Istvan Castle Museum telling the story of the 1552 siege. Allow half a day.
Szepasszony Valley cellars
A horseshoe of small cellars cut into the hillside, pouring Bikaver and Egri Csillag by the glass. Take cash; many do not take cards.
๐Ÿ“ Map & photos ยท โ‚ฌ
Climb the minaret
Knezich Karoly utca 4: an Ottoman minaret now topped with a cross, up a very tight spiral stair. Not for the claustrophobic.
๐Ÿ“ Map & photos ยท โ‚ฌ
Lyceum camera obscura
Eszterhazy ter 1: the observatory tower holds a working 18th-century camera obscura projecting live Eger onto a white table.
๐Ÿ“ Map & photos ยท โ‚ฌ
Eger Turkish Bath
Frank Tivadar ut: a restored Ottoman bath with a domed thermal pool, joined onto the big modern town baths next door.
๐Ÿ“ Map & photos ยท โ‚ฌโ‚ฌ ยท Website โ†—

Getting there

Train from Budapest
Trains from Budapest Keleti take about two hours; some services need a change at Fuzesabony. Roughly hourly through the day.
Bus from Budapest
Volanbusz coaches from Puskas Ferenc Stadion take about two hours and drop you a short walk from the old town.
Getting around
The centre crosses in 20 minutes on foot. Szepasszony Valley is a 25-minute walk or a cheap taxi from Dobo ter.

When to go

Best time to go
May-June and September, when the cellars are open and the terraces are full.
Cheapest months
January to March: cold and quiet, with hotel rates roughly halved.
Priciest & busiest
Late-August harvest weekends and wine festival dates. Book well ahead.

If you've got one day

Morning
Dobo Istvan ter for the baroque facades and the Minorite church, then up to the castle before the coaches arrive.
Late morning
Ramparts and casemates at Eger Castle, then the minaret's spiral stair for a rooftop view over the town.
Lunch
Macok Bistro below the castle wall on Tinodi Sebestyen ter, or something cheap off the market.
Afternoon
The Lyceum's camera obscura and observatory tower, or a long soak in the Turkish bath.
Evening
Walk 25 minutes out to Szepasszony Valley and work along the cellar doors. Taste, do not gulp.

Nearby & day trips

Egerszalok salt hill
Six km west: white travertine terraces built up by thermal water, with the Saliris spa resort wrapped around them.
Szilvasvarad
Forty minutes north: the Szalajka valley waterfalls, a narrow-gauge forest railway and the Lipizzaner stud farm.
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