Hungary's second city and Calvinist capital: a huge yellow Reformed church, a loud student nightlife, and the Great Plain starting at the city limits.
Great Reformed Church
The yellow neoclassical church on Kossuth ter where Hungary declared independence in 1849. Climb the tower for the plain.
Deri Museum
Deri ter 1: Munkacsy's monumental Christ trilogy in its own hall, plus archaeology and city history. Closed Mondays.
Aquaticum spa
Thermal baths and a Mediterranean indoor water park in Nagyerdo park, with an outdoor strand running through summer.
Reformed College
Teaching since 1538, with a great library and the hall where the 1849 revolutionary parliament sat. Short and worthwhile.
Hortobagy puszta
UNESCO-listed grassland 40 minutes west: grey cattle, csikos horsemen and the Nine-Arch Bridge. Best as a half-day trip.
Train from Budapest
InterCity trains from Budapest Nyugati reach Debrecen in about two and a half hours, roughly hourly through the day.
Fly Debrecen (DEB)
A small international airport 5km southwest of the centre, with seasonal European routes and a bus link into town.
Getting around
Trams 1 and 2 loop from the station up Piac utca to Nagyerdo park and the university. One ticket covers everything.
Morning
Kossuth ter and the Great Reformed Church, then up the tower for a look out over the plain.
Late morning
Deri Museum for the Munkacsy trilogy, then the Reformed College library a few steps away.
Lunch
A terrace on Piac utca, or the market hall for cheap, filling Hungarian plates.
Afternoon
Tram 1 to Nagyerdo park for the water tower, the botanical garden, and Aquaticum if you fancy a swim.
Evening
Craft beer in the centre, then a gig at Roncsbar or a concert at the Kolcsey Centre.