Budapest eats in three registers: working market halls, a weekday set-lunch culture that keeps a full meal under 3,000 forint, and a small number of kitchens worth booking a table at.
Lehel Csarnok
The District XIII market hall at Lehel tér, right on the M3 — a working food market rather than a sight, with butchers, pickle and cheese stalls downstairs and cheap cooked plates and lángos upstairs. Mornings are when it works; like most Budapest market halls it winds down early and does little on Sundays.
Bartók Béla út
Buda's café and gallery boulevard, running from Szent Gellért tér towards Kosztolányi Dezső tér on trams 19, 47 and 49. Bakeries, wine bars, a hummus bar and small galleries within a few blocks, at prices below the Pest centre.
Rosenstein Vendéglő
Mosonyi utca 3, behind Keleti station: a father-and-son kitchen cooking Jewish-Hungarian food — goose, matzo-ball soup, slow-cooked beef — with the owner at the stove. Open Monday to Saturday 12:00–23:00, and it needs booking.
Kávé és sütemény — the cukrászda habit
Coffee and cake in the late afternoon is a real institution here, not a tourist ritual. Auguszt Cukrászda, in the same family since 1870, has counters on Kossuth Lajos utca in Pest and by Fény utca market in Buda; ask for krémes, Esterházy torta or a Dobos.