Two cities on one river: Buda's castle hill and Pest's grand boulevards, stitched together by thermal baths, ruin bars and very good coffee.
Soak at Szechenyi Baths
Neo-baroque palace with 18 pools in City Park; the outdoor thermal pools run all year. Book online to skip the ticket queue.
Castle Hill at dawn
The Fisherman's Bastion terraces are free and near-empty before 9am. Matthias Church and the Danube panorama are the payoff.
House of Terror
Andrassy ut 60, headquarters of the secret police under both regimes. Heavy, essential, closed Mondays; tickets on the door only.
Ruin bars, District VII
Start at Szimpla Kert on Kazinczy utca, then the Instant-Fogas complex on Akacfa utca. Free entry at both; go early to see the decor.
Great Market Hall
Vamhaz korut: paprika, salami and pickles downstairs, langos and folk tat upstairs. Closed Sundays, quietest first thing.
Fly Budapest (BUD)
Ferenc Liszt airport is 16km southeast. Bus 100E runs direct to Deak Ferenc ter but needs its own ticket; city passes are not valid.
Train from Vienna
Railjet services reach Budapest Keleti in about 2h40m, roughly hourly. Bratislava is around 2h30m, Prague closer to seven hours.
Getting around
Metro, trams and buses share one BKK ticket. Tram 2 along the Pest embankment is the cheapest sightseeing in the city.
Best time to go
May-June and September: warm, long evenings, garden bars open, no August crush.
Cheapest months
November to March outside the Christmas market weeks; cold, but baths are at their best.
Priciest & busiest
August during Sziget, New Year, and Advent weekends. Book beds months ahead.
Morning
Tram 2 to Kossuth ter for the Parliament exterior, then walk back across the Chain Bridge to Buda.
Late morning
Up Castle Hill for Fisherman's Bastion, Matthias Church and the long view over Pest.
Lunch
Great Market Hall for langos and sausage, or a bistro in the Palace Quarter across the river.
Afternoon
Three hours at Szechenyi Baths in City Park. Bring flip-flops and a towel, or hire them there.
Evening
Dinner in the Jewish Quarter, then Szimpla Kert and late food at Karavan on Kazinczy utca.