The Athens table — what to order and where the locals point.
Souvlaki & gyros
Wrapped in pita with tzatziki — Athens argues about the best; Monastiraki's alleys make a strong case.
Varvakios market
The central market's chaos, then tripe soup or grilled fish at the stalls inside.
Modern Greek tasting
Athens' new-wave kitchens turned taverna food into a scene — book ahead downtown.
Loukoumades
Honey-soaked dough puffs, the ancient Olympians' prize — now with ice cream options.
Freddo espresso
The city runs on cold-whipped coffee — order it metrio and nurse it for hours like everyone else.