The things worth doing in Hamburg, from the obvious landmarks to the ones locals actually rate.
Rathaus & Alsterarkaden
Neo-renaissance city hall with a courtyard you can walk into, and arcades along the water beside it. Tours run in English.
Kontorhausviertel & Chilehaus
1920s brick expressionism shaped like a ship's prow, UNESCO-listed alongside Speicherstadt. Free, and best in low sun.
Deichtorhallen
Two vast former market halls turned contemporary art and photography galleries. Open 11:00-18:00 and rarely crowded.
Karolinenviertel & Schanze
Independent shops, street art and coffee between the Messe and the bunker. Hamburg without the harbour postcard.
Fischmarkt on Sunday
Altona's Sunday-morning market: fish sellers shouting, brass bands playing and Reeperbahn survivors eating breakfast.