Cologne · Nightlife

Brewery tavern and beer garden at Am Hof, in the cathedral's shadow. Kölsch in 0.2l glasses, replaced without asking.

Friesenstraße brewhouse, open daily from noon, still brewing on site. Loud, wood-panelled and pleasingly gruff.

Live jazz every night since 1974 in a cramped Buttermarkt room. Its sister bar on Alter Markt does 1920s music machines.

Cologne's big electronic room on Auenweg in Deutz, drawing international headliners most weekends. Book ahead for the big names.

Odo Rumpf's scrap-metal sculpture yard on Hornstraße, doubling as beer garden, open-air cinema and club. Mostly summer.