Provence · Food

The city's covered market, around forty traders behind Patrick Blanc's plant wall. Tuesday to Sunday, 6am to 2pm, stretching to 3pm during the late-July festival dates. Go before ten if you want the fish and cheese counters rather than the leftovers.

A cobbled street following a channel of the Sorgue from the Rue des Lices out to the walls, with four of its old waterwheels still turning — there were 23 of them in 1817. Plane trees, cafés and small restaurants the length of it, and it turns into Festival OFF territory in July.

Hotel dining room tucked behind the Palais des Papes, and the one address here worth a booked dinner. Its Marmiton school has taught cooking and pastry since 1994 in the old kitchen on an 1860 wood-fired stove, finishing round a table with wine pairings; classes run Tuesday to Saturday, and there are pastry sessions for children from seven.

The big Comtat market, 8am to 12.30pm, and from December to March — and again from mid-May to mid-August — the truffle market runs alongside it from 8.30am. If Friday does not fit, Bédoin is Monday morning and Sault and Malaucène are Wednesday.