Lyon's markets do a lot of the work the restaurants get credit for, and the three best ones all shut on Monday.
Marché Saint-Antoine / Célestins
The riverside food market on Quai Saint-Antoine: 44 stalls midweek and 121 from Friday to Sunday. Tuesday to Thursday 6am–1pm, Friday and Saturday to 1.30pm, Sunday to 2pm. Fruit, cheese, charcuterie, roast chickens, fish, bread and flowers.
Marché de la Croix-Rousse
Strung along Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse, 6am–1.30pm every day except Monday, with organic growers present most days. This is the hill's own market rather than a visitor one, and the walk down into the Presqu'île afterwards is all downhill.
Marché du Quai Augagneur
The one that runs in the afternoon: 2pm–8pm daily except Monday on the left bank of the Rhône. Useful if you have spent the morning up on Fourvière and want to assemble a picnic for the quays instead of sitting down to a full bouchon dinner.
Monday is the market's day off
Saint-Antoine, the Croix-Rousse and Quai Augagneur all close on Mondays. The wider metropolis runs around 220 markets, so one is always open somewhere, but in the centre Monday is the day to eat in a restaurant rather than shop for yourself.