The Tampere table — what to order and where the locals point.
Mustamakkara
Black sausage with lingonberry jam, from Tammelantori market — Tampere's own, and divisive.
Pyynikki doughnut
Munkki and coffee at the ridge tower café; a genuine pilgrimage.
Sauna-side food
Kuuma and Kaupinoja serve dinner between löyly rounds.
Mill-district restaurants
Finlayson and Tampella's brick halls host the best kitchens.
Market hall
Kauppahalli's counters do a proper Finnish lunch.
