Porvoo · With kids

The town's chocolate and marshmallow maker has sold from here since the nineteenth century, and the factory shop prices are half the tourist ones.

A medieval stone church on the hill above the old town, burnt and rebuilt more than once, up a short steep climb over cobbles.

In summer a historic vessel runs down the coast and up the river, about three and a half hours each way. Take the bus back if patience runs out.

A swimming beach and woodland in summer, a small ski slope with a lift in winter, twenty minutes' walk from the old town.

The old town is steep and roughly paved — a carrier beats a pushchair. Cafés keep high chairs, and the last coaches back to Helsinki run late.