Helsinki rewards a visitor who mixes water with architecture: a ferry to a fortress, a sauna on the shore, and a handful of buildings that are worth going inside for their own sake.
Suomenlinna sea fortress
A UNESCO-listed 18th-century fortress spread over islands off the city, reached by ferry. People live there, so the walk around the ramparts is the main event; the museums inside charge separately and keep their own hours (Suomenlinna Museum 10.30-17.00, Submarine Vesikko 11-18), and some close outside the summer.
Löyly
Public sauna and restaurant on the Baltic shore at Hernesaarenranta 4, about 25 minutes' walk or a tram ride south of the centre. Sauna and restaurant hours differ and change day to day (for example restaurant 11-23, sauna 12-22), so check before you go and book a sauna slot.
Oodi Central Library
Free to walk into, open Mon-Fri 8-21 and Sat-Sun 10-20. As well as around 100,000 books it holds two cafes, studios, the Urban Workshop maker space and the Kino Regina cinema; the top-floor reading level is the part most visitors come for.
Amos Rex
Art museum at Mannerheimintie 22-24 showing changing contemporary exhibitions. Open Mon-Fri 11-20 and Sat-Sun 11-17, closed Tuesdays; tickets are sold online, and since shows rotate it is worth checking what is actually up before committing an afternoon.
Temppeliaukio Church
The church quarried into bedrock, entered from Lutherinkatu 3. A day ticket is 8 euros for adults and free for under-18s. Opening times shift week to week because services and concerts take priority, so check the site about a week ahead rather than turning up.