The Fiji table — what to order and where the locals point.
Kokoda
Fiji's coconut-lime raw fish — the islands' answer to ceviche.
Lovo feast nights
Earth-oven pork, taro and palusami unwrapped with song — resort or village.
Kava ceremony
The peppery root bowl shared clap-by-clap — say 'bula' and mean it.
Indo-Fijian curries
Roti parcels and goat curry — the islands' other great kitchen, best in Nadi town.
Market papaya & pineapple
Nadi and Suva's produce markets — breakfast by the kilo.