A student city: the market hall covers the cheap end, a 19th-century café covers the sweet end, and the good kitchens sit within two blocks of Town Hall Square.
Tartu Turuhoone and the open market
The market hall at Vabaduse pst 1 (Mon–Sat 07:30–16:00, Sun 09:00–15:00) plus the open-air market at Soola 10, which starts at 07:00 daily. Farm produce, smoked fish and bakery counters, five minutes' walk from Town Hall Square and far cheaper than eating out.
Rüütli and Küüni streets
The two pedestrian streets running off Town Hall Square carry most of the city's terraces and mid-priced restaurants; Küüni drops towards the park, Rüütli climbs towards the university. In term time the outdoor tables fill from late afternoon.
Kohvik Werner
Ülikooli 11, opened in 1895 by the pastry chef Johann Werner and still one of Estonia's oldest cafés. Mon–Fri 07:30–21:30, Sat 09:00–21:30, Sun 09:00–21:00, doing Viennese-style pastries, quiches, bread and daily specials. A standard student meeting point.
Kringel and the weekday lunch plate
Two things to know: kringel, a sweet braided bread, is the local bakery staple and Werner sells it by the loaf; and because this is a student town, almost every kitchen runs a cheap fixed-price päevapraad between roughly noon and three on weekdays.