Estonia's third city, largely Russian-speaking, on the EU's eastern edge, where two castles stare at each other across a narrow border river.
Narva Castle
The 13th-century Danish-built Hermann Castle, now the Narva Museum. Note it closes Mondays and Tuesdays.
Five Kroon View
The riverside deck framing Hermann Castle and Russia's Ivangorod Fortress together, as printed on the old banknote.
Kreenholm district
The huge red-brick mill that was once the largest textile factory in Europe. Guided tours run on Sundays.
Narva river promenade
A 1 km riverside walk with sculptures, a fountain and a sundial, running below the castle along the border.
Narva-Jõesuu beach
Thirteen km north: eight km of fine sand, pine dunes and three spa hotels. The old Riviera of the North.
Train from Tallinn
Elron runs five trains a day, taking just under three hours. Fares are around 14 to 16 euros, a little more in first class.
Coach from Tallinn
Lux Express runs roughly 15 buses a day between 06:00 and 21:00 for 12 to 16 euros, in about the same time.
Drive from Tallinn
210 km on the Narva road, around two and a half hours. Handy for combining with Lahemaa and the Ontika coast.
Best time to go
June to early September, when the promenade and Narva-Jõesuu beach come alive.
Cheapest months
January to March. Very cheap and very cold, with only about six hours of light.
Priciest & busiest
Early September for Station Narva, and the midsummer beach weekends.
Morning
Straight to Narva Castle for the museum and the ramparts, checking first that it is not a Monday or Tuesday.
Late morning
Walk the promenade to the Five Kroon View for the two-fortress shot across the river.
Lunch
Georgian food on Kerese street, where the khachapuri beats anything at Tallinn prices.
Afternoon
Out to the Kreenholm mill for the scale of it, ideally on a Sunday when the guided tour runs.
Evening
Dinner in town, then a drink at Art Club Ro-Ro with the river and Russia in view.