The Cairo table — what to order and where the locals point.
Koshary
Pasta-rice-lentils-crispy onions under spiced tomato — Egypt's beloved carb summit.
Ful & ta'ameya mornings
Fava stew and Egypt's green falafel from steaming carts.
Khan el-Khalili tea
Mint tea and shisha at Fishawi's, pouring since 1773.
Nile-view grills
Kofta and pigeon (hamam mahshi — the delicacy) over the river lights.
Om Ali
The bread-pudding of the sultans, hot from clay bowls.
