Animals that ignore people entirely, which is worth more to a child than any zoo on the mainland.
Charles Darwin Research Station
Free, walkable from town, with giant tortoise breeding pens and land iguanas behind low walls. An hour, and quietest early. Ages 3+.
Tortuga Bay
A flat paved path through cactus forest to a long surf beach, with a sheltered lagoon at the far end where small children can swim. Ages 4+.
El Chato highlands
Wild giant tortoises in a farm's pastures and a lava tunnel to walk through, half an hour up into the mist. Wellingtons provided. Ages 4+.
Las Grietas
A water taxi and a twenty-minute rocky path to a swimmable crevice between lava walls. Deep water, so confident swimmers only. Ages 8+.
Crossings and sun
Inter-island speedboats are two hours of open swell and rough on small stomachs. The equatorial sun is severe, and shops stock very little — bring medicines.