Prague has stopped being only pork and dumplings, but the two things worth planning around are still the weekday lunch menu and beer poured properly — and the good version of both is usually one tram stop off the tourist streets.
Farmers' Market at Jiřák
On náměstí Jiřího z Poděbrad in Vinohrady, in the park beside Plečnik's brick church. Wednesday to Friday 8:00–18:00 and Saturday 8:00–14:00, February to December: bread, vegetables, cheeses, handicrafts and stalls cooking lunch. Metro A to the door.
Lokál Dlouhááá
Dlouhá 33, open 11:00 to midnight Monday to Saturday and to 22:00 on Sunday. Beer from twelve tanks and Czech cooking done seriously: soups 45–105 Kč, mains 185–495 Kč. It seats over a thousand people a day, so it is one of the few central places you can simply walk into.
Karlín — Pernerova and Křižíkova
The neighbourhood that eats best on a weekday. Eska at Pernerova 49 is a bakery with a kitchen — bread, all-day breakfast, lunch — open 8:00–18:00 on weekdays and 9:00–18:00 at weekends, no reservations taken. The streets either side run on the same idea.
Chlebíčky
Open sandwiches sold by the piece over a lahůdky counter — potato salad, ham, egg, fish, a slice of pickle on top. They are the standard Czech standing lunch, eaten in ten minutes for a fraction of a sit-down meal, and they exist in every district.