Prague
EUROPE · FIESTA SIDE
A thousand years of Gothic showing off, wrapped around Europe's cheapest beer and a night that runs until the trams start again.
The plan
Prague Castle at opening
Be at St Vitus by 9am, before the tour groups. Grounds are free; the circuit ticket covers cathedral, palace and Golden Lane.
📍 Map & photos · €€ · Website ↗
Charles Bridge before breakfast
At 7am you get the statues and the river mist almost to yourself. Come back at midnight for the second-best version.
Vysehrad instead of the crowds
Hilltop fortress with casemates, the Slavin cemetery and the best free river view. Locals picnic here at weekends.
📍 Map & photos · € · Website ↗
Strahov Library
Two baroque halls of gilded shelving above the castle. You view them from the doorway, so go for the ceilings, not the books.
📍 Map & photos · €€ · Website ↗
Naplavka on a Saturday
The riverbank farmers market runs Saturday mornings, then the boat bars take over. Ninety-odd stalls of cheese, cider and cake.
📍 Map & photos · € · Website ↗
Getting there
Fly into Prague (PRG)
Airport Express bus reaches the main station in about 35 minutes; bus 119 plus metro A is cheaper. Buy tickets before boarding.
Train from Vienna or Berlin
RegioJet and Czech Railways run direct four-hour trains from Vienna and Dresden, with reserved seats and coffee brought to you.
Bus from anywhere
FlixBus and RegioJet arrive at Florenc, one metro stop from the Old Town. Often under 20 EUR from Vienna or Krakow.
When to go
Best time to go
May and September: warm terraces, long light, thinner crowds than midsummer
Cheapest months
January to March, once the Christmas markets pack up and the cold sets in
Priciest & busiest
Late December and New Year, plus Easter week when room rates double
If you've got one day
Morning
Cross Charles Bridge at dawn, then climb to Prague Castle for the 9am opening and St Vitus without the queue.
Late morning
Walk down Nerudova into Lesser Town, detouring through the free Wallenstein Garden and its resident peacocks.
Lunch
Beer and svickova in a Lesser Town pub, or grab chlebicky open sandwiches if you would rather keep moving.
Afternoon
Tram 22 to Vysehrad for the ramparts and the river bend, or Museum Kampa for Kupka and Czech modernism.
Evening
Dinner in Vinohrady, jazz at AghaRTA, then Karlin or Holesovice for the late half of the night.
Nearby & day trips
Kutna Hora
Under an hour by direct train from Praha hl.n. Bone chapel, medieval silver mines and a cathedral built by miners.
Terezin memorial
An hour north by bus from Nadrazi Holesovice. The former ghetto and fortress; sobering, and worth a full day.
The full episode drops on our socials — follow along: