Olomouc

A 32m UNESCO baroque column carrying 52 sculptures, with a chapel inside its base, dominating the Upper Square.

Rebuilt in the 1950s with workers and chemists in place of saints. Wound by hand, no electricity, one show a day at noon.

In the Romanesque bishop's palace beside the cathedral: treasury, state carriages and Central European old masters.

The ripened cheese from nearby Lostice smells appalling and tastes excellent fried in beer batter. Order it at least once.

Interactive science centre and planetarium inside a 19th-century artillery fort. Closed Mondays, adults 180 CZK.

Two hours fifteen direct on the Prague-Ostrava line. RegioJet, Leo Express and Czech Railways all compete, so fares stay low.

Ninety minutes across Moravia and an easy pairing with Brno on almost any Czech itinerary.

No useful airport of its own. Prague is 2h15 by train, Vienna around four hours with a change at Breclav.

May to June and September, with students back and the terraces full

July and August, when the university empties and beds go cheap

December, for the Christmas markets on both of the main squares

Upper Square first: the town hall, the Holy Trinity Column and four of the six baroque fountains.

Be at the astronomical clock for the noon show, then climb the 75m town hall tower.

Fried tvaruzky and a dark lager in the brewhouse at Svatovaclavsky pivovar.

St Wenceslas Cathedral and the Archdiocesan Museum, then the ramparts walk through Bezrucovy sady.

Cheap pints along the Masne kramy passage, then a band at Klub Vertigo or cocktails at Long Story Short.

Pilgrimage basilica and the city zoo on a hill 10km out, reached on tram 4 and a short connecting bus.

Neo-Gothic castle an hour northwest, rebuilt by the Teutonic Order and a fixture of Czech fairytale films.