Kutna Hora · Food

Almost every restaurant, pub and cafe in the old town sits on or just off these two, within a couple of minutes of each other. Kitchens here follow the coaches: busy at lunch, thinning from about four, and mostly done by ten.

Jiriho z Podebrad 288: a working winery in the middle of a Bohemian mining town, certified biodynamic since 2014 - the first in the country - making a Schwarzenbergska top range, a classic line and a Wine PUNK series, with tastings booked through the winery and an online shop.

If you are doing the ossuary first, this street is where you eat before or after, because it is a 3 km walk or a bus ride back to the old town's restaurants. It is also where the Sedlec ticket office is, so plan the meal around the ticket rather than the other way round.

Czech towns this size run on the weekday lunch menu - soup and a main, ordered off a board, for a fraction of the evening price - and Kutna Hora is emptier and cheaper at one o'clock than it is at seven. Evening kitchens close early enough that arriving at nine can mean no dinner at all.