A valley of pastel colonnades where you sip hot mineral water from a porcelain spouted cup, then chase it with herbal liqueur.
Walk the five colonnades
Mill, Market, Park, Castle and Hot Spring. Buy a spouted lazensky pohar cup and taste your way up the valley.
Vridlo, the hot geyser
The spring fires twelve metres at 72C inside the concrete 1970s hall. Free, constant, and far louder than you expect.
Diana funicular and tower
Funicular from behind the Grandhotel Pupp, then a lift or 150 steps to the lookout over the whole spa valley.
The Home of Becherovka
Tour and tasting in the original distillery on T.G. Masaryka, Tuesday to Sunday, from around 290 CZK a head.
Book one real spa treatment
Thermal baths, carbon-dioxide dry baths and massages are sold to day guests by most spa hotels. Reserve a day ahead.
Bus from Prague
RegioJet and FlixBus leave Florenc roughly hourly and take a little over two hours, cheaper and faster than the train.
Train from Prague
Slower at over three hours with a change, but the run down the Ohre valley is genuinely worth a window seat.
Fly into Prague (PRG)
Direct airport coaches run to Karlovy Vary several times a day. The local airport has almost no scheduled flights.
Best time to go
May to September, when colonnades, funicular and terraces are all running
Cheapest months
November to March outside Christmas; spa hotels discount heavily then
Priciest & busiest
Early July for the film festival, booked out many months ahead
Morning
Start at the Hot Spring Colonnade, buy a porcelain cup, and drink your way slowly upriver.
Late morning
The Mill Colonnade's five springs and the wooden Market Colonnade, then the art nouveau Castle spring.
Lunch
Dumplings and tank Pilsner off Stara Louka, or coffee and pastry in the old pharmacy cafe.
Afternoon
Funicular up to the Diana tower for the valley view, then walk back down through the beech woods.
Evening
Becherovka cocktails at Becher's Bar, or craft beer on the pedestrian T.G. Masaryka strip.