Czechia
EUROPE · 6 PLACES
Beyond Prague's spires, Czechia hides silver-mine towns, spa colonnades and Moravian wine cellars. Everything is three hours apart by train, the beer is the world's cheapest, and nothing is priced in euros.
Prague
Castle, Old Town and the best nightlife in Central Europe
Cesky Krumlov
Stay after the day-trippers leave and the town is yours
Brno
Functionalist architecture, ossuaries and serious cocktail bars
Karlovy Vary
Spa colonnades, Becherovka and a slow reset before Moravia
Kutna Hora
Bone chapel and silver mines, an easy first stop out of Prague
Olomouc
Baroque fountains, student pubs and almost no other tourists
One month here
Castle, Old Town and the best nightlife in Central Europe
Bone chapel and silver mines, an easy first stop out of Prague
Stay after the day-trippers leave and the town is yours
Spa colonnades, Becherovka and a slow reset before Moravia
Functionalist architecture, ossuaries and serious cocktail bars
Baroque fountains, student pubs and almost no other tourists
Three months here
Long enough to live in a district rather than tick off sights
Base for Bohemian castles and slow days in the Vrchlice valley
Rafting, forest hikes and the South Bohemian lake country
Full spa course, plus Loket and the West Bohemian spa triangle
Moravian Karst caves and Palava wine country on the doorstep
Cheapest base in the country and a gateway to the Jeseniky hills
Festivals worth flying for
Prague Spring · Mid-May to early June
Classical music festival opening on the anniversary of Smetana's death; books out early
Five-Petalled Rose Celebration · Mid-to-late June
Cesky Krumlov turns Renaissance: costumes, jousting, fire shows and street feasting
Karlovy Vary Film Festival · Early July
Czechia's big international film festival; the spa town books out months ahead
Signal Festival · Mid-October
Four nights of light and video art projected across Prague's landmarks, mostly free
St Martin's Day wine · 11 November
Young Moravian wine is released at 11am nationwide, drunk with roast goose
In an emergency
Emergency number 112
Dial 112 free from any phone; operators speak English. Also 155 ambulance, 158 police. EHIC works at state hospitals. Pharmacies are signed Lekarna.
Language
Czech. Good English in Prague and Brno, patchier in spa and mining towns.
Money
Czech koruna (CZK), never euros. Cards work almost everywhere; keep coins for toilets and tips.
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