The Split table — what to order and where the locals point.
Soparnik
Chard pie from the Poljica villages — UNESCO-listed peasant food, sold by the slice.
Riva coffee ritual
Dalmatia's true religion: two hours, one espresso, the whole town walking past.
Grilled fish in Varoš
Konobas hide in the stone lanes — fish by the kilo, blitva alongside.
Green market & pašticada
The pazar's produce, and Split's Sunday beef stew with gnocchi where grandmas approve.
Fritule
Little fried dough knots dusted in sugar — winter street sweet gone year-round.