Tortuguero · Where to stay

Cabinas and small guesthouses along the sand streets between the canal and the beach, within a few minutes of the sodas, the park entrance and the Sea Turtle Conservancy. Much the cheapest option and the only one where you choose where you eat.

The larger lodges sit on the far bank and sell two- and three-night packages with meals, boat transfers and guided tours, and most have pools. Comfortable, but you run on their boat timetable and getting into the village at night is an expedition.

A handful of small places up the canal past the village, near the Caño Palma research station — quieter water and better early-morning wildlife, at the cost of needing a boat for absolutely everything.

One night means arriving in the afternoon and leaving at dawn, which buys you a single boat trip. Whichever base you choose, book two nights so you get a dawn canal trip plus either a park walk or a turtle tour.